Thursday, September 16, 2010

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral













East Buttress of Middle Cathedral
5.10 C or 5.9 AO
11 pitches.
Probably the best climb of its grade in the Valley, in my opinion. For several reasons I make this statement. I am sure people would disagree with me saying that their favorites would be the best. However I do not believe there is another climb in the Valley of this grade that offers so many wonderful pitches of great climbing. As well as I believe this climb is one of the only climbs that offers such astounding views of El Capitan. The approach is very casual as well as the descent. The only negative point I could make about this climb is that the climb has the reputation for being crowded. I have heard stories from other climbers about the crowds of climbers converged at the base waiting for their opportunity on the climb. However the day I climbed we shared the route with only one other party. Two climbers who actually shared our campsite with us as well. Lucky! You don't want to miss this climb.